How to Buy a Shipping Container (Without Regrets
Step 1: Figure Out What You Actually Need
Let’s be real: A 40ft container isn’t for everyone. Ask yourself:
- “Am I storing lawn chairs or building a tiny home?”
- 10ft: Cheap, cozy, and great for small stuff (but claustrophobic for workshops).
- 20ft: The Goldilocks size—fits most DIY projects.
- 40ft: Big enough to park a tractor… or host a dinner party.
- New vs. Used
New = shiny and predictable. Used = cheaper but check for rust (more on that later).
Step 2: Don’t Get Scammed
(Because yes, container scams exist.)
- Red Flags:
- Sellers who refuse to send close-up photos of corners/doors.
- “Watertight” claims without proof (ask for a video of someone hosing it down).
- Prices that seem too good (e.g., $1,500 for a “like new” 40ft).
- Pro Tip:
Ask for the CSC plate number (that’s the container’s ID tag). Google it—if it’s been in a hurricane, you’ll know.
Step 3: Measure Twice, Cry Once
Ever bought a container that didn’t fit? Ouch.
- Site Prep:
- Clear a flat spot (slopes = disaster).
- Check local rules—some towns hate containers (weird, right?).
- Delivery Day:
Drivers need 30ft of space to maneuver. If your driveway’s a jungle, trim the bushes.
Step 4: Make It Yours (Or Don’t)
- Skip Mods If…
You just need storage. A basic container works. - Add Mods If…
You’re building a studio, office, or literal man cave.- Windows? Easy.
- Insulation? Doable (but costs extra).
- Electricity? Hire a pro—zapping yourself isn’t fun.
Step 5: Avoid Buyer’s Remorse
- Check the Floor:
Marine plywood = good. Rotting boards = run. - Inspect Doors:
Do they close smoothly? Stuck doors = rage-inducing. - Rust Check:
Surface rust? Sand it. Holes? Walk away.
Final Thought:
Buying a container feels overwhelming, but it’s just steel + planning. Take your time, ask dumb questions, and don’t trust sellers who won’t FaceTime you the container.